Tsukinoya

In the late afternoon, charcoal smoke drifts over the street alongside the sweet and savory aroma of tare sauce. Located in Adachi Ward's Kohoku neighborhood, Tsukinoya (月のや) is an unpretentious yakitori and motsuyaki stall that has long been a fixture of everyday neighborhood life. The prime draw for many stopping by the counter is the liver, grilled with careful attention to heat. Cooked to leave a soft, melting center, it holds its own whether glazed in a rich sauce or seasoned simply with salt to emphasize the inherent flavor of the meat.

Alongside liver, the menu includes resilient, chewy heart and tongue, savory kashira pork jowl, standard chicken-and-scallion negima, pork belly, and pleasantly crunchy cartilage. Every skewer is generously portioned, encouraging diners to pick several varieties and compare textures and cuts.

Operating primarily for takeout, it suits those enjoying a skewer fresh off the grill on the spot as much as those packing an assortment home to accompany an evening drink. Because service is limited to just a few afternoon hours and queues can form depending on the time, stopping by with a bit of extra time is recommended.